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A caravan diesel heater is a compact 12V air heater that burns a small amount of diesel in a sealed combustion chamber, blows warm, dry air into the van and sends its exhaust outside. To choose the right one, match the heat output to your van size and insulation, decide between an installed or portable unit, check the current draw against your battery, plan the fuel supply and controls, and budget for a safe installation with a carbon monoxide (CO) alarm.
For most caravans up to about 24 feet, a 2kW to 2.2kW installed diesel heater gives enough heat for winter touring and free camping. Larger vans, or vans with canvas sections, may need a 5kW unit. A portable diesel heater suits travellers who want one heater for several setups. Whatever you buy, the exhaust must vent outside, the installation must follow the manual, and a working CO alarm belongs inside the van.
Choose a caravan diesel heater in five steps: size it, pick installed or portable, check the battery draw, plan the fuel, and plan a safe installation.
- Size it: 2kW to 2.2kW for caravans up to about 24 ft; 5kW for larger or canvas-sided vans.
- Pick the format: installed for one van; portable to move between setups.
- Check the power: up to 2.8A while running, or about 28Ah over a 10-hour night, for HiTech’s 2.2kW heater.
- Plan the fuel: about 1 to 3 litres of diesel per night, from a tank outside the living space.
- Plan a safe install: exhaust outside and away from openings, and a CO alarm inside the van.
A caravan diesel heater, also called a diesel air heater or diesel parking heater, heats cabin air through a metal heat exchanger, so the air you breathe never mixes with the combustion gases.
| Part | What it does |
|---|---|
| Glow plug | Heats up at start-up to ignite the fuel |
| Pulse fuel pump | Measures small doses of diesel from the tank |
| Combustion chamber | Burns the diesel with air drawn from outside |
| Heat exchanger | Transfers heat from the combustion gases to the cabin air without mixing them |
| Intake and exhaust pipes | Bring combustion air in from outside and send exhaust back outside |
| Cabin air fan, ducts and vents | Draw air from the van, pass it over the heat exchanger and return it warm |
| Controller | Starts and stops the heater and sets the output or temperature |
Because the two air paths are separate, the heat is dry. This is why many caravanners prefer diesel heat to unflued heaters, which release combustion moisture and gases into the room.
Diesel is the best fit for off-grid winter travel because it runs from the 12V battery and a small diesel supply; gas suits vans built around LPG, and reverse cycle air conditioning suits powered sites.
| Feature | Diesel air heater | LPG (gas) air heater | Reverse cycle air conditioner |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fuel or energy | Diesel | LPG (propane or butane) | 240V mains power |
| Off-grid use | Yes, with a 12V battery | Yes, with a 12V battery | Limited; needs a large inverter and battery bank |
| 12V current (example) | HiTech 2.2kW heater: up to 2.8A | Truma VarioHeat (sold by HiTech): 0.65A to 2.75A | Not a 12V appliance; very high battery draw through an inverter |
| Heat output (example) | 2.2kW (HiTech installed heater) | 1.3kW to 2.8kW (Truma VarioHeat) | Check the heating capacity of the model |
| Fuel use (example) | Up to 0.28 L/h (HiTech 2.2kW) | About 100 to 220 g/h (Truma VarioHeat) | No fuel; uses mains electricity |
| Best for | Off-grid and winter touring | Vans already set up for LPG | Powered sites, plus cooling in summer |
Many vans carry two of these. A common setup is reverse cycle air conditioning for powered sites and a diesel heater for free camping.
For most caravans up to about 24 feet, a 2kW to 2.2kW diesel heater is enough; caravans over 24 feet or those with canvas sides may suit a 5kW heater.
This is the sizing guide for HiTech Power Solutions’ caravan diesel heaters range. Length is a starting point, not the full answer. A well-insulated 22-foot van in Queensland needs far less heat than a pop-top camper in Victoria’s High Country in July.
| Your setup | Suggested heater size | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Camper trailer, small van or pop-top, well sealed | 2kW to 2.2kW | Small air volume heats quickly |
| Caravan up to about 24 ft | 2kW to 2.2kW | HiTech’s guide for compact spaces |
| Caravan over 24 ft | 5kW | HiTech’s guide for vans over 24 ft |
| Caravan with canvas sides | 5kW | HiTech’s guide for canvas-sided vans |
No. A heater that is too large for the van spends most of the night at its minimum output or cycling on and off, which gives less even comfort and costs more to buy.
HiTech’s guide notes that a 5kW model in a large van runs mostly on low and lifts its output when needed. In a small van, that same heater would rarely need more than its lowest setting. Size the heater for your coldest realistic night, not the biggest number on the shelf.
- Insulation and windows: large windows, hatches and thin walls lose heat faster.
- Canvas: pop-top and camper trailer canvas holds little heat.
- Outside temperature: alpine and inland winter nights can drop below zero.
- Ventilation: keep the van’s fixed vents open; they are needed for fresh air, whatever heater you use.
Choose an installed diesel heater for a permanent, tidy setup in one caravan, and a portable diesel heater if you want one heater you can move between a van, camper trailer, workshop or other setup.
HiTech Power Solutions sells both types: the HiTech 2.2kW 12V Diesel Heater and a Portable Diesel Heater. The table uses the specifications on each product page.
| Specification | HiTech 2.2kW 12V Diesel Heater (installed) | Portable Diesel Heater (sold by HiTech) |
|---|---|---|
| Heat output | 2.2kW | 2kW |
| Power | 12V; 24W input; up to 2.8A at 12V running | 26W / 100W (supply voltage not stated on the product page) |
| Fuel consumption | Up to 0.28 L per hour | 0.112 to 0.4 L per hour |
| Fuel supply | Tank listed in the included accessories; can also connect to an existing lockable diesel tank | 4.25 L fuel tank capacity |
| Weight | 4.5kg, excluding fuel tank | 2.7kg main unit |
| Controls | Digital controller; Power Control mode with a rotary knob | Bluetooth control for heating, start up and monitoring, plus a switch panel |
| Mounting | Can be mounted inside or outside the vehicle; 200 × 200mm base plate | Compact 310 × 115 × 122mm unit |
| In the kit | Wiring harness, pulse pump, 3m fuel line, 700mm intake and exhaust lines, 2 × 60mm ducts and vents, filter and clamps | Check the listing for included accessories |
Read the full listings for the HiTech 2.2kW 12V diesel heater and the portable diesel heater sold by HiTech before you buy.
PRACTICAL TIP
Before buying a portable diesel heater, confirm its supply voltage, the length of its power lead and how its exhaust is routed outside. A portable unit is still a fuel-burning appliance, so the exhaust must never discharge inside the caravan or annexe.
Once running, a caravan diesel heater uses roughly 24W to 26W of 12V power and between about 0.1 to 0.4 litres of diesel per hour, depending on the model and heat setting.
Power use is highest for a short time at start-up, while the glow plug heats, and the heater also needs power after you switch it off so the fan can cool the unit down. Never cut the 12V supply mid-cool-down. Check the manual for the start-up current so you can size the cable and fuse correctly.
Not usually. At HiTech’s listed maximum of 2.8A, a 2.2kW heater would use about 28Ah over a 10-hour night, and less on lower settings.
A 100Ah lithium battery gives about 90Ah to 95Ah of usable capacity, according to the Australian Government’s YourHome guide to batteries. That leaves plenty for your fridge and lights, as long as the battery is recharged the next day by solar, a DC-to-DC charger or mains. If your van still runs an AGM battery, only about half its rated capacity is usable, so a heater adds noticeable load. Our guide to choosing the right lithium battery for your caravan explains how to size a battery bank.
Expect about 1 to 3 litres of diesel for a 10-hour night, depending on how hard the heater works.
HiTech’s 2.2kW heater uses up to 0.28 L per hour, or about 2.8 litres over 10 hours at full output. HiTech’s category page says roughly one litre of diesel gives up to 10 hours of heat. The portable heater sold by HiTech has a 4.25 L tank, which lasts roughly 10.6 hours at its maximum of 0.4 L per hour and close to 38 hours at its minimum of 0.112 L per hour.
At an example diesel price of \$2.00 a litre, 1 to 3 litres a night costs about \$2 to \$6, plus a small amount of battery power.
Work out your own figure by multiplying litres per hour by hours of use and by the current pump price. For example, a heater using 0.2 L per hour for 10 hours burns 2 litres, or about \$4 at \$2.00 a litre.
Look for the right heat output, a 12V supply that suits your system, a clear control mode, a complete installation kit, a sensible fuel setup and published altitude and warranty information.
Before You Buy Checklist
- Heat output matches your van size, insulation and climate
- 12V supply and running current suit your battery and wiring
- Start-up current is listed, so the cable and fuse can be sized
- Control mode suits you: manual power mode, thermostat or app
- Fuel tank size and location are planned outside the living space
- Kit includes exhaust, intake, ducting, fuel line, filter and clamps
- Altitude capability is confirmed if you travel to alpine areas
- Warranty terms are clear (see HiTech’s Warranty Policy page)
- A CO alarm is budgeted for inside the van
Power mode holds a fixed heat output that you set manually, while thermostat mode adjusts output automatically to hold a set cabin temperature.
HiTech’s 2.2kW heater page describes Power Control mode: you press the button to start and turn a rotary knob to set the output, and the heater runs continuously. If you want the heater to manage the temperature for you overnight, ask whether a thermostat mode is available before you buy.
Many diesel heaters work at altitude, but thinner air changes the fuel-to-air ratio, so some need an altitude setting or adjustment to burn cleanly.
Neither HiTech diesel heater page lists an altitude rating. If you tour the Snowy Mountains, Victoria’s High Country or Tasmania’s Central Plateau in winter, contact HiTech to ask whether the heater suits your route. In very cold weather, also ask the fuel retailer about winter grade diesel.
A well-installed diesel heater is quiet inside the van; the sounds you are most likely to hear are the fuel pump ticking and the exhaust outside.
- Mount the fuel pump on its rubber mount, as the manual directs, so its ticking does not carry through the chassis.
- Point the exhaust outlet away from your bed and away from neighbouring campsites.
- Use an exhaust silencer if the kit includes one or the manual allows it.
- Run the heater on a lower setting overnight, when the fan is quieter.
Install the heater in a protected spot such as a storage compartment under a seat or bed, or beneath the floor, with its intake and exhaust routed outside and the fuel tank kept outside the living space.
- Exhaust: route it to the outside, away from doors, opening windows, the awning and the fridge and roof vents, so exhaust cannot drift back in.
- Combustion air intake: draw it from outside, away from the exhaust outlet and road spray.
- Fuel tank and pump: mount them outside the living area, with the pump at the angle specified in the manual.
- Warm air outlet: place it low and central, so heat spreads through the van rather than straight at the bed.
- 12V wiring: run a dedicated, correctly fused circuit sized for the start-up current.
- Service access: leave room to reach the heater, fuel filter and connections later.
Keep warm air ducts short with gentle bends, place the outlet low in the main living area and keep the cabin air return clear.
HiTech’s 2.2kW kit includes two 60mm ducts and two 60mm vents. Long or sharply bent ducts lose heat and airflow. Never cover the return air inlet with bedding, bags or stored gear, because the heater needs a free flow of cabin air to run properly.
COMMON MISTAKES TO AVOID
Pointing the exhaust toward the door, awning or under the annexe, where people sit. Running a portable heater inside the van or annexe without its exhaust sealed and routed outside. Drilling through the floor without checking for chassis members, cabling, water lines or gas lines underneath. Using undersized 12V cable, which causes voltage drop and failed starts. Sleeping with a fuel-burning heater running and no working CO alarm.
Many diesel heater kits are sold for self-installation, but a qualified caravan technician or auto electrician is the safer choice unless you are confident with fuel, exhaust and 12V work.
HiTech’s 2.2kW heater comes with its wiring harness, fuel line, exhaust and intake lines and ducting, and can be mounted inside or outside the vehicle. Whoever installs it should follow the heater manual exactly. Before cutting holes, check your caravan manufacturer’s warranty terms and tell your insurer about the modification.
Yes, a diesel heater is safe in a caravan when it is installed to the manual, the exhaust is sealed and routed outside, it is maintained, and a working CO alarm is fitted inside.
The main hazard is carbon monoxide. It is an odourless, colourless gas produced by incomplete burning, and diesel-powered devices are listed as a source by HealthyWA. In a diesel heater, CO can reach the cabin through a leaking exhaust joint, a damaged heat exchanger or an exhaust outlet placed near an opening.
IMPORTANT TO KNOW: CARBON MONOXIDE Symptoms: headache, dizziness, nausea, vomiting, weakness, shortness of breath and confusion. They can feel like the flu without a fever, and people who are asleep may not notice them (HealthyWA). What to do: turn the heater off, get everyone into fresh air and call Triple Zero (000) if anyone is dizzy, faint or unconscious. For advice, call the Poisons Information Centre on 13 11 26 at any time (NSW Health). Prevention: fit a CO alarm in the van, test it before each trip and never ignore an exhaust smell inside.
Follow the service schedule in the manual, check the exhaust and fuel connections each season, and run the heater regularly so the fuel system does not sit idle for months.
- Check exhaust clamps, joints and the outlet for cracks, soot or looseness.
- Inspect fuel lines and replace the inline fuel filter as the manual directs.
- Watch for warning signs: white or black smoke, hard starting, a fuel or exhaust smell inside, or soot around the outlet.
- Have the heater serviced by a qualified technician if any warning sign appears.
Match the heater to how and where you travel: an installed 2kW to 2.2kW unit for most off-grid caravans, 5kW for large or canvas-sided vans, and a portable unit for flexibility.
| If you mostly… | Consider | Key check |
|---|---|---|
| Stay on powered sites in mild weather | You may not need a diesel heater | A 240V heater may be enough on site power |
| Free camp or tour off-grid in winter, van up to about 24 ft | Installed 2kW to 2.2kW heater | Battery capacity and daily recharge |
| Tow a van over 24 ft or with canvas sections | 5kW heater (HiTech sizing guide) | Ask HiTech about current 5kW availability |
| Use more than one setup, such as a van and a camper trailer | Portable diesel heater | Supply voltage, exhaust routing and tank size |
| Head to alpine areas in winter | Any size, confirmed for altitude | Altitude capability and winter-grade diesel |
Choosing a diesel heater for your caravan comes down to five checks: the right heat output for your van, an installed or portable format that fits how you travel, a 12V draw your battery can carry, a safe fuel and exhaust layout, and a working CO alarm. For most caravans up to about 24 feet, a 2kW to 2.2kW installed heater is the practical choice.
Browse the HiTech Power Solutions diesel heater range or contact the HiTech team on (03) 9123 8442 or Tech@hitechpowersolutions.com.au to talk through the right heater for your van.
Yes, provided it is installed to the manual with the exhaust sealed and routed outside, the van’s fixed vents are open and a working CO alarm is fitted. HiTech’s listing describes its portable diesel heater as ideal for overnight use because of its quiet operation.
Only if its exhaust is sealed and routed to the outside, as the manual directs. A portable diesel heater burns fuel, so its exhaust must never discharge inside the van or annexe.
Neither is better for everyone. Diesel suits vans that want to save LPG for cooking and hot water, while an LPG heater such as the Truma VarioHeat suits vans already built around gas. Both run from a 12V battery.
HiTech lists its 2.2kW heater at up to 2.8A at 12V while running. Start-up draws more for a short time while the glow plug heats, so check the manual when sizing the cable and fuse.
Not always. HiTech’s guide lists two options: drawing from the tow vehicle’s diesel tank or adding a separate 10-litre tank. A separate tank keeps the heater independent of the tow vehicle, which suits vans that are often unhitched at camp.
Indirectly, yes. The heater runs from the 12V battery, and solar panels recharge that battery during the day. Size your solar and battery for the heater’s overnight use plus your other loads.
A faint smell on the first few runs is common as new parts burn off, but an exhaust or fuel smell inside the van is a warning sign: switch the heater off and have it checked. Diesel heaters do not add combustion moisture to the cabin, so they cause less condensation than unflued gas heaters.
Yes, it is strongly recommended. CO has no colour or smell, and people who are asleep may not notice symptoms, so an alarm is your early warning if the exhaust leaks.
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